RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

 

Recommendations for gear is subjective, however, there are a number of questions each year on what kind of gear should you buy so this guide is to steer you in the right direction. While the choice of gear may be subjective there are some mistakes that should be avoided.  What we do in the AMC is called "trad" (traditional) climbing and gear for other types of climbing (gym, bouldering, sport, aid) may not be appropriate for use and you don't want to rely on the salesperson in the local EMS/REI who may climb 5.11s in the rock gym but has never been on a  multi-pitch route.  There is no need to buy any equipment for the Beginner classes.  Gear required for the Intermediate class is noted.   If you want to go on to the Intermediate classes  you can discuss specific brands/models of gear with instructors beforehand.

  

HARNESS (required for Intermediate Class)

 

I recommend a harness with a belay loop and gear loops.   I do not recommend using a “diaper type” harness like the Black Diamond Bod.  Fit is the most important criteria.  Adjustable leg loops are recommended if you plan on ice climbing. The Black Diamond Momentum harness is a good buy at around forty buck.

 

SHOES (required for Intermediate Class)

 

You should buy a pair of fairly stiff  lasted "all around" shoes that feel COMFORTABLE.   Lace-up shoes vice slipper style are recommended.  Many people buy shoes too tight.  The shoe should fit snugly and your toe should lie flat in the shoe and not be curled up.  Trad climbing is typically long moderate routes where comfort is more important than performance.  When you are climbing 5.11 you can buy a pair of cruel shoes that torque your toes until your nails turn purple and fall off.  Go to a gear shop that has a good selection and try on lots of different brands.  Support your local shop if you desire or if the local shop is gouging you on price find the right size and model and buy them online. 

          

CARABINEERS (BINERS) (required for Intermediate Class)

 

 You will need one pear-shaped locking biner for belaying and two general purpose locking biners.  Get screwgate biners.  Do not get autolocking biners.  It is helpful to have locking biners that do not have a notch in the gate that can get snagged on webbing, etc.  The Petzl Attaché and the Black Diamond  Positron and Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner fit this requirement.

 

BELAY DEVICE (required for Intermediate Class)

 

There are a slew of different belay devices on the market.  I recommend that you start off with a tube style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC-XP, Black Diamond ATC, the Trango Jaws, Trango B-52, Trango Pyramid or Wild Country Variable Controller.  We do not use auto-locking devices like the Petzl GriGri in trad climbing.  We also do not use Figure 8 devices.  I recommend self-locking belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC-Guide and Petzl Reverso only if you are experienced.

 

 PRUSIK SLINGS (required for Intermediate Class)

 

 Two five-foot lengths of 6mm Perlon (nylon) cord (not Spectra, Gemini, or Vectra which it too stiff) tied in a loop with double fisherman knot. 

 

SLINGS/RUNNERS (required for Intermediate Class)

 

 Get two 2 ft and one 4 ft sewn slings. I recommend 11/16" (18mm) nylon vice the thin Spectra or Dyneema slings.

  

 NUT-CLEANING TOOL (required for Intermediate Class)

 

Any kind but the ones with the built in biner are handy for clipping.  

 

HELMET

 

The AMC provides the helmets for the classes so you won't need one right away. When you do buy one I recommend that Petzl Meteor or Petzl Ecrin Roc.  Helmets are required to be worn while climbing with the AMC.

 

HEADLAMP (required for trips)

 

Headlamps are required for the climbing trips.  Sooner or later you'll need it.  Just try to hike off Cannon cliff in the dark without one.  I would consider the new LED headlamps, which are lighter in weight and the batteries last much longer than with standard of halogen bulbs. Black Diamond and Petzl have some nice models.

 

CHALK BAG

 

 While any bag will work this is your one and only chance at making a fashion statement with climbing gear.

 

ROPE

 

You won't need a rope unless you want to venture out on your own after the classes.  You can buy a class rope and the end of the course at half the price the AMC paid for it.  If you get your own I recommend a 10.5mm x 60-meter dry rope.  Read the reviews in climbing magazines or talk to experienced climbers.   You want it to have a low impact force and low stretch in trad climbing for a soft catch.

 

GEAR TO SET UP TOP ROPES

 

At some point (after the classes and after you're thoroughly addicted) you'll probably want to set-up some top ropes using stout trees and for this you'll need some anchor material.  There are a couple of options: Webbing is one choice but a bad one as it takes forever to equalize   Go with a static rope.  It should be 100 feet of 7/16" static line.  You will be instructed on how to use this in the classes.

 

WHERE TO BUY YOUR ROCK CLIMBING EQUIPMENT:

 

You can support your local climb shop if you are so inclined but there are no local climb shops with large selections in RI so the Web may be a better option.  There is a listing of local shops on www.climbri.com .

 

 ANYTHING ELSE?

 

 Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills is  the trad climbers bible.  You can get a copy at EMS or a big chain book store.